Weeknight Pork and Zhacai
Xueci Cheng brings us a recipe for perhaps the most ubiquitous home-cooked dish of her childhood: stir-fried pork slivers (ròusī, 肉丝), in this case featuring pickled mustard and called zhàcài ròusī, 榨菜肉丝.
"Rousi dishes were in both my grandmas’ and my mom’s repertoires," she writes, "often flavored with crunchy green peppers or a delectable fish-fragrant sauce. Whenever these women needed to feed a hungry family, a plate of stir-fried pork was the quick and easy solution.
"The most well-known rousi dish is yúxiāng ròusī, fish-fragrant pork, which consists of pork slivers, celtuce and wood ear mushroom cooked in a thick, garlicky sweet-and-sour sauce. But all kinds of different ways of preparing this type of stir-fried meat are common in Sichuan home cooking. In fact, the cookbook Popular Sichuan Cuisine (大众川菜), first published in the 1970s, features more than 10 rousi dishes made with ingredients like onion, squash, tender chives or tofu skin.
"Zhacai rousi is a classic version with a savory and umami flavor profile known as xiánxiānwèi (咸鲜味). Zhacai is a preserved vegetable made from the tuber of the mustard plant, prized for its crisp, tender texture and rich umami taste. This dish uses zhacai as a potent flavor enhancer, giving the meaty combination an aromatic, umami-filled flavor with a slightly sweet aftertaste."
I myself have frequently encountered this combo as a soup in Sichuan, and Xueci says that you can turn it into a soup (zhàcài ròusītāng, 榨菜肉丝汤) by simmering the zhacai in stock and then adding pork slivers and tender leafy greens, such as pea shoots.
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