Super Duper Douchi
Greetings, Friends of The Mala Market!
As you know, our mission at The Mala Market is to bring to the U.S. the heritage products of Sichuan (and, increasingly, of other Chinese regional cuisines). We go to the source whenever possible to learn about these storied products, meet the makers, and convince them to work with a small specialty-food company such as ours. Last summer we made the trip up to Mianyang, in northern Sichuan, to seek out the famous Tongchuan douchi. These fermented soybeans (known as "black beans" in the U.S.) are Sichuan's original commercially made douchi, manufactured in the county formerly named Tongchuan since 1670. Though the factory has been modernized in recent decades, they still ferment the little yellow beans in the large clay jars pictured above (with Fongchong). The very same kind of jars are still used to ferment the handmade Pixian doubanjiang, handmade Zhongba soy sauce, handmade Boaning vinegar and a few other small-batch products we source. The (translated) caption in the company's douchi museum explains it rather poetically: "Store it in jars; store it outdoors in the sun and rain, absorb the essence of the sun and the moon, and get the spiritual energy of heaven and earth."In other words, the porous clay allows the beans to interact with their environment and become a product of their distinct terroir. And that is one reason these heritage products are so special! These Chinese companies—some private, some state-owned—are still taking the time to make at least some of their products (not their supermarket lines) according to centuries-old methods, keeping the traditions that birthed these products alive. When we sat down with the owners for the tasting, FC and I saw immediately the difference between the premium line of Tongchuan douchi and others we've tried, both those from Sichuan and, most frequently in the U.S., from Guangdong. We also tasted the difference! While some of you may be upset to lose the previous brand of douchi (we know, change is hard!), we do believe these are superior in texture and taste— plus they are gluten-free, additive-free and preservative-free! So for those of you looking to make a highly flavorful gluten-free sauce, these are an excellent place to start.
Enjoy!
🌶 Taylor & Fongchong 🌶
P.S. Tongchuan douchi will take your Sichuan mapo doufu and twice-cooked pork to another level. Plus, our affiliate Maggie at Omnivore's Cookbook has a new recipe for clams in black bean sauce, and we've got two new recipes featuring black beans, from Guangdong and Hunan. Keep reading! |
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Tongchuan 3-Year Fermented Soybeans (Handcrafted Chinese Black Beans, Douchi)
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$12.00
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An even older Chinese condiment than soy sauce, douchi are a fixture of Cantonese cuisine but also beloved in other parts of China, including Sichuan, where they are made in a different style and result in a different texture and taste—though they are interchangeable in Chinese recipes.
In Sichuan, yellow soybeans are steamed; inoculated with qu (koji) and left to grow some snowy mold; then mixed with salt in a large earthenware jar, sealed and left to ferment. After fermentation, the soybeans end up deep black in color (hence their English name), plump and moist in texture, and intensely salty-savory in flavor. These douchi are individual, distinct beans, but soft and delicate, with a strong fragrance from their high moisture content.
While supermarket black beans are aged from six months to a year, these premium, handcrafted douchi are aged in their jars for a full three years, intensifying the umami and depth of flavor.
The craft of making Tongchuan douchi even has National Intangible Cultural Heritage status, a rarity for food (which Pixian doubanjiang also has).
Unlike the more-familiar Cantonese black beans, which are dry and covered in salt, these should NOT be rinsed before use to clean or rehydrate, as they don't need it. However, they SHOULD be refrigerated once opened.
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Hunan Pan-Fried Tofu With Black Beans
This is one of those Chinese dishes that exemplifies the deliciousness and versatility of the humble soybean by flavoring one form of soybean (crispy, pan-fried tofu) with another form of soybean (fermented douchi). Far from same-same, the combo is a thrilling contrast of flavor. Xueci Cheng brings us this recipe, which is really a method for cooking tofu that you can then sauce Hunan-style, Sichuan-style or even mild!
"Last year, during a food-focused family trip, my parents, aunt, grandma and I traveled 100 miles south of Chengdu to Xiba (西坝), a small town renowned for its traditional handmade tofu. Walking through the old streets, we were surrounded by the sights of tofu everywhere: casual eateries with giant woks of freshly made tofu; locals enjoying delicate nigari tofu pudding (douhua) dipped in spicy sauce on the streetside; street vendors selling golden fried tofu triangles stuffed with daikon radish slaw drizzled with sweet vinegar....
"Back home in Germany, though the selection of tofu is less extravagant and my skills fall short of the Xiba chefs’, tofu is also a mainstay in my kitchen, thanks to its versatility and affordability. One simple dish I make on repeat is Sichuan-style home-style tofu (jiācháng dòufu, 家常豆腐), pan-fried tofu served in a savory, starchy sauce made with Pixian doubanjiang. But recently, I’ve fallen for another version of the dish: Hunan pan-fried tofu with black bean sauce (jiāxiāng dòufu,家乡豆腐)....
"In Sichuan, home-style tofu emphasizes the flavors of fermented fava beans and fermented chilies (in doubanjiang), while in Hunan, it showcases the vibrance of fermented soybean with fresh chilis. When I recreated Hunan’s pan-fried tofu with black bean sauce in my own kitchen—omitting the shrimp to keep it vegetarian—it was slightly different from the Sichuan rendition I know and love yet equally delightful, a blend of savory, umami and spicy flavors."
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Cantonese Chicken With Douchi
Inspired by the iconic sizzling clay pot dishes known as juéjué bāo (啫啫煲) she ate when visiting Guangzhou, Xueci set out to adapt the juejue bao technique for home cooking by making Cantonese chicken with black bean sauce (dòuchǐ jī, 豆豉鸡) in a clay pot.
"Juejue bao is a technique rather than any one single dish," Xueci explains. "Originally pronounced zhě in Mandarin (for 啫, a character that relates to the sizzling sound the dish makes) and pronounced jué in Cantonese, jue jue refers to a cooking method where fresh ingredients are quickly seared in a preheated clay pot, without adding water or broth. Clay pots retain heat exceptionally well, and when the ingredients hit the scorching surface, they sear instantly. This locks in the food’s moisture, creating tender, juicy bites with a slightly crisp exterior. The high heat also intensifies the aroma of the sauces and aromatics, allowing the Shaoxing wine added to these dishes to evaporate and infuse the other ingredients with its deep fragrance....
"According to The Cantonese Chef’s Classic (《粤厨宝典》), chef Liang Meng (梁孟) created the first juejue chicken in the 1940s. During an especially cold winter, he experimented by preheating the clay pot even longer than he did for his usual clay pot chicken (煀鸡, qū jī) and adding more oil to keep the food warm for diners. The loud sizzling sound inspired the dish’s name, and it quickly became a Guangzhou favorite. Some records also refer to it as zhāzhā jī (喳喳鸡)....
"I streamlined the process to create a quick, accessible home version. While I can’t replicate the intense heat of restaurant burners, I use boneless chicken thighs, cut into smaller pieces, to ensure they cook quickly. For best results, use a powerful gas stove and a robust clay pot. However, this dish can also be made in other heat-retentive cookware, such as a small cast-iron pot, deep cast-iron skillet, or even a wok with a lid (like The Mala Market’s cast-iron wok)."
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