April 2022: New Shiitake and Cloud Ear Mushrooms and Recipes

Wood ear is a family of fungi that are ear-shaped and grow on trees. This species of wood ear is the small and delicate cloud ear, which, being thinner and lighter, is easier to rehydrate to the perfect texture than the thick, coarse varieties. 

Many Chinese dishes call for wood ear mushrooms not so much for their flavor—which is slight—but for their chewy, jelly texture. They are just the right textural counterpoint to soft proteins or vegetables and also add a nice bit of color to lighter dishes.

My favorite wood ear salad above is sufficiently different to complement any spread. It’s slightly crunchy, but not from frying or baking, so it goes well with soft foods. It’s served with a wet dressing, so it goes well with dry foods. It’s cool and neutral flavored, so it offsets hot and spicy foods. It’s fresh, but not raw, and it’s a fungus, but not a cap-and-stem mushroom—so there’s never anything else quite like it.

The widely loved shiitake mushroom is known in Chinese as 香菇 (xiānggū), or fragrant mushroom, due to its intense umami taste. And the very best is 白花菇 (bái huāgū), or white flower mushroom, because its cap features deep, white cracks that resemble a flower. 

Dried flower mushrooms lend a powerful, earthy aroma and flavor to all kinds of Chinese braises and soups, such as the chicken soup above. Soak our shiitake in cool-lukewarm water for 3-4 hours for best results. Contrary to many recipe recommendations, you don't need to throw away the stems as long as they're adequately rehydrated! Retain the flavorful mushroom water for use as a broth or flavoring agent, as in vegan mapo tofu.

Pickled er jing tiao chilies, 泡椒 (pàojiāo), made in Chengdu are back in stock. While I work on starting my own pickle jar from scratch, these packages of paojiao go a long way toward making every bite feel just a little more nostalgic.

Like all traditional Sichuan pickles, these chilies are naturally fermented and soured without the addition of vinegar. I love paojiao in stir-fries and cold salads but especially fish dishes—from all the water-boiled fish variations to classic Chengdu 烤鱼 (kǎoyú) grilled fish and, naturally, the infamous "fish-fragrant" dishes like this yu xiang pork that have no fish at all.