Fermented tofu, also known as preserved tofu, fermented bean curd, jiang doufu, doufuru or simply furu, is yet another in the vast Chinese cupboard of ultra-umami condiments. You either already love it or soon will—that is if you like a slight tinge of aged funk to your savory, salty treats.
Fermented tofu is also called Chinese cheese, as it is similar in texture, look and even flavor to soft aged cheeses like blue cheese and brie. Just as microbes turn dairy into cheese, they also turn tofu into a creamy, flavorful spread. Like blue cheese, furu is a powerful flavor used in small amounts to enhance other foods—in this case rice, congee, breads, greens and more.
We are proud to introduce to the U.S. Sichuan's oldest and most storied brand of furu, Jiajiang, which was founded in 1861. Our factory visit (see photos) showed that they still ferment tofu in the traditional way over a long period in earthenware crocks. Jiajiang refers to Jiajiang County, which is part of greater Leshan city in southern Sichuan.
While the Jiajiang Qingjiang Brewery makes several versions of furu, this flavor is xiang la, or fragrant hot. The creamy, salty, boozy and tangy fermented tofu is bathed in a contrasting chili oil with significant spicy heat.
Note that this is an all-natural fermented product without preservatives. Changes in temperature during transit (or in your home) may induce further fermentation, causing the oil to leak from the jar a bit. This is a natural process and does not affect the quality of the furu.
Recommended on Instagram by Chinese-food authority Fuchsia Dunlop: "...I'm a bit of an evangelist for the delights of fermented tofu as an ingredient. You can find several tasty varieties in most Chinese supermarkets, but if you want to splash out on something special to eat with rice/congee or on toast etc, may I recommend this utterly scrumptious version from southern Sichuan. I became so obsessed with it a few years ago that I made a pilgrimage to the artisanal factory where it is made! Lovers of farmhouse cheeses will adore the stuff..."
This fragrant-hot fermented tofu: a white tofu packed in oil with ground chilies and significant heat
Heritage Process
Furu is widely made in China, and each region has its own method and ingredients. Jiajiang begins by stone-grinding soybeans to make tofu, cutting the tofu into small cubes, inoculating it with microbes, and leaving it to grow a snowy-white mold covering in a precisely controlled environment. This is the process of protein decomposition and conversion into amino acids.
After the initial fermentation is complete, the tofu cubes are packed into earthenware crocks and mixed with salt, rice wine and spices, including chilies and Hanyuan Sichuan pepper, and left to ferment for 180 days. The finished furu is then jarred with freshly made Sichuan-flavored spicy oil. No artificial colors, flavors or preservatives are added.
History + Honors
Jiajiang furu is a Sichuan Time-Honored Brand and its production technique has provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage status.
Compare To
There are two main types of furu in China. The kind eaten in Sichuan is white furu, though it may be packed in a red chili flakes or oil. The other main category of furu is red, which is popular in eastern China and is fermented with red yeast rice, which give its sauce a deep red color and sweeter taste. It is used to color braises and Cantonese BBQ.
Do not confuse the furu category of fermented tofu, which has an appetizing fragrance, with chou doufu, or stinky tofu, which is made completely differently, has a different texture and, indeed, a stinky, rotten smell.
How To Use It
The go-to furu in western China, white furu is generally eaten as a condiment, spread on Chinese steamed buns, for example, or served alongside congee or steamed rice. It can also be used in cooking—mixed into stir-fried greens to produce a super flavorful sauce; added to marinades for steamed and braised meats; and mixed into dipping sauces, including hotpot dipping sauce.
In Yunnan it is added to a sauce for deep-fried potatoes. And Western chefs have snuck it into everything from pasta sauces to salad dressings—anyplace a unique but subtle flavor boost is desired. In our own house, while I reach for parmesan to top a red-sauce pasta, Fongchong adds a cube of furu to hers.
As are most naturally fermented products, furu is quite salty, so a little goes a long way. One cube is sufficient to flavor a bowl of rice topped with a fried egg, for example.
Storage
We recommend refrigeration for storage of this product both before it’s opened and, definitely, after.
Fermented products do not expire if stored properly and not cross-contaminated. Let appearance and aroma be your guide and do not eat if there is visible mold.
White fermented tofu is used to make a delicious sauce for Chinese stir-fried greens—traditionally water spinach, but yu choy and bok choy are also a match
