Yunnan Grandma's Potatoes
Yes, these are grandma's potatoes, but they're not your grandma's potatoes, unless you happen to be from Yunnan Province. Georgia Freedman tells us why we shouldn't underestimate these taters.
"It took me almost a year and a half of living in Kunming, Yunnan, to try one of the city’s most ubiquitous dishes: grandma’s potatoes (lǎonǎi yángyù, 老奶洋芋)," she writes. "The descriptions I heard made the dish sound suspiciously like Western mashed potatoes. I thought that perhaps the dish was something that had been specifically created to cater to expats and backpackers. And I’d learned early in my travels around China that the dishes created to cater to travelers were almost never the best options on the menu.
"I was so wary of the dish that it wasn’t until pretty late in my two-year stay that I finally gave in and decided to see what all the fuss was about. With my first bite, I realized that I’d been missing out. The potatoes were delicious. Instead of the bland mash that I’d anticipated, they were a riot of flavors: There were bright pickles, aromatic chives, roasty slices of garlic, and fiery dried chilies all mixed into the potatoes, their flavors melding with the starch to create something both comforting and delightful. The oils these ingredients were cooked in also permeated through the starchy bits, making the whole thing feel rich and unctuous. Taken all together, the laonai yangyu was good enough that I could have made a meal out of it on its own, but it also worked perfectly as a foil for the other meats and vegetables on the table. It was, in short, a pretty perfect food."
Georgia used our new tiao zi jiao for this recipe, saying their almost fruity flavor and punch of heat add a really nice note.
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